LEISURE LETTER 87: A DANDY'S LAYOVER IN CANNES
A Dandy’s Layover in Cannes
For the sake of reverie, let’s just assume there was a layover in Cannes. One day, maybe two. Which is probably unlikely, as Cannes is typically the grand destination, and would never suffer the injustice of being merely a “stop along the way” . . . but we can . . . just for this once . . . assume. Our overview should prove helpful nonetheless.
As you’re undoubtedly aware, the term “Cannes” refers to but one of the glittering, sunspangled jewels adjoining France's Côte d'Azur. More notably it is home to the most prestigious film festival in the measurable universe, drawing in for the entire month of May, as if by implacable gravity, what many would judge to be the most glamorous ladies and gents in the world. Movie stars, artists, the cultural elite . . . It’s a wonderful time, to be sure. But it’s not the only time.
Not by a longshot. And you may be glad to know that Cannes is not just a sanctuary for sunbathers and movie stars . . . but a treasure trove of hidden gems for those who crave a unique, off-the-beaten-path experience. Picture yourself, a modern dandy, reveling in the luxuriant yet relaxed ambiance of this glamorous coastal metropolis. Here’s your guide to eating, sleeping, and breathing the luxurious, highly aesthetic essence of Cannes.
Let the day begin in Le Suquet, the historic heart of Cannes. There you may as well be stepping into an impressionistic dreamscape. As the sun rises, the cobblestone streets glisten with a warm glow, and the air fills with the constant aroma of freshly baked goods from quaint boulangeries. Ancient stone buildings, adorned with cascading bougainvillea, betray silent echoes of a burning history, while the distant sound of the harbor awakens the promise of a new day. Here, in this enchanting quarter, the essence of old-world Riviera elegance blends into the vibrant pulse of modern life, offering a serene yet invigorating ambiance to get things started.
Moving on! A change of pace! . . .
. . . Now I once heard a sad lady say, “If you’ve seen one beach you’ve seen em’ all!” What a remarkable sentiment, I thought to myself, I’ll never visit another beach again . . . Well, fortunately for you, myself, and everybody else, her sentiment could not have been farther from the truth. As you will come to see, Cannes forbids this hypothesis entirely. Of course it is renowned for its pristine beaches, but to truly immerse yourself in the authentic experience, you will want to seek out the more secluded coves and pools of renewal. The Plage du Midi, located west of the Old Port, offers a tranquil retreat with its white colored sands, lapped ever so gently by the soft waves blown halfway across the Medi. The atmosphere is utterly charming and relaxed, richly colored: like some impossible California, reconfigured by the masterful brush of Matisse. Do yourself a favor and lay back with a good book, a glass of chilled white, and a bowl of fresh fruit. The horizon is the limit.
For a more exclusive experience, head to Île Saint-Honorat, one of the Lérins Islands. Accessible by a short ferry ride, this island is home to a Cistercian monastery and some of the clearest waters you’ll ever see. Spend your afternoon snorkeling or simply lounging by the shore, surrounded by the island’s serene beauty and the monks’ vineyards.
Cannes is steeped in history, much of which can be explored through its less frequented museums and sites. The Musée de la Castre, perched atop Le Suquet, offers panoramic views of the city and the bay. Housed in a medieval castle, the museum showcases a diverse collection of art and artifacts from around the world, a fascinating juxtaposition to Cannes’ modern-day glitz.
Film enthusiasts should not miss the Cinéma de la Plage, an open-air theater on the beach that screens classic and contemporary films during the Cannes Film Festival. This tradition, started in the 1940s, encapsulates the city’s longstanding love affair with cinema, offering a magical movie-watching experience under the stars.
Another hidden gem is the Villa Domergue, the former home of painter Jean-Gabriel Domergue. This art deco mansion, with its exquisite gardens and stunning views, often hosts art exhibitions and cultural events. It’s a quiet haven where you can appreciate both art and nature, away from the usual tourist crowds.
For accommodations, the InterContinental Carlton Cannes delivers the ambiance. Built along up to the very shore of the Riviera, it is colored with the spirit of Cannes’ cinematic history and coastal charm. This Belle Époque marvel, with its intricate façade and storied past, has been the setting for numerous legendary moments, from film stars frequenting its suites to grand festivities echoing within its opulent halls. As the sun sets, the Carlton's terrace transforms into a bountiful oasis, alive with the music of conversation and trinklings of glass dish and drink. Under the shade of palm trees and the soothing murmur of the Mediterranean breeze, guests can enjoy carefully crafted cocktails that embody the relaxed yet vibrant essence of Cannes. Each drink offers a unique blend of flavors, providing the perfect setting for an evening steeped in quiet history and modern enthusiasm.
In Cannes, the true luxury lies in discovering some charming nook in among its intricate spread, or the rarefied indulgence of an umbrella, a towel, and a bright patch of sand. By sparing no expense on culinary escapades, basking on the lesser-known beaches, and becoming immersed in the rich cultural tapestry, you’ll experience a side of this iconic city that will forever endure as a symbol of leisure in its ultimate aspect. So, embrace your inner dandy and let Cannes reveal its secrets to you.
